Seoul, vegetarian

Meat and fish hide in Korean cooking — anchovy or beef in the broth, fish sauce in the kimchi. Every place in the first list has a full meal without them, checked against its own menu rather than guessed; the second list is for pescatarians, who eat fish but no meat. None is certified, and kitchens change recipes, so ask when it matters.

No photos, no star ratings — just what I'd tell a friend. 123 places across 20 neighborhoods, from the same guide as the neighborhood pages.

Open the guide
123 places · 103 easy yes

Vegetarian — a full meal with no meat or fish

Bukchon · Anguk · 2
easy yes

Milgwa Bori

밀과보리 · Changdeokgung 1-gil

A humble local table: barley or gondeure (herb) rice, seasoned namul, and bibimbap.

What to get: the woorimil barley rice or gondeure rice (both have a two-portion minimum, but a solo diner can ask for one); the minari (water-parsley) jeon (savory pancake) — it has shrimp, so vegetarians get the potato jeon.
Getting in: Small room, packed at office lunch — get there at the 11:15 open, or after 1pm once that rush is over. Break 3–5pm, closed Sundays. Anguk exit 3.
easy yes

Thanks Oat, Anguk

땡스오트 안국 · Jae-dong

The neighborhood's best breakfast: smoothie and Greek-yogurt bowls, salads, sandwiches, all from scratch.

What to get: an acai smoothie bowl or the Greek-yogurt bowl; salads and sandwiches too.
Getting in: Opens early, 8am-7pm, and stays roomy — a calm, from-scratch start when few places in Seoul do breakfast. No added sugar. Anguk exit 2, about 5 min.
Seochon · 4
easy yes

Maji

마지 · in a Seochon hanok, near Gyeongbokgung Station

Temple cuisine (사찰음식) in a Seochon hanok, all plant-based courses. Not my regular, but where I'd take a vegetarian.

easy yes

MASAMADRE BAKE SHOP

마사마드레 · on the Okin-dong slope

Natural-levain sourdough with a Blue Ribbon; the jalapeño melting-cheese sandwich is the meat-free draw.

haven't been

Fillin

필린 · on the Hong Geon-ik House lane

Haven't been, but it's a focaccia-sandwich kitchen on the Hong Geon-ik lane; the hummus plate's the veg pick.

haven't been

sagefinch

세이지핀치 · on Pirundae-ro 1-gil, the Hong Geon-ik House lane

Haven't been, but it's a tiny open-toast brunch spot that sells out and closes by four.

Jongno · 4
easy yes

Balwoo Gongyang

발우공양 · opposite Jogyesa temple

The Jogye Order's own temple cuisine as fine dining, once Michelin-starred; fully vegan, no garlic or green onion.

easy yes

Kkot, Bap Pida

꽃밥에피다 · up an alley off Insadong 16-gil

An organic-farm Korean table with a full vegan course, and years of Michelin Bib and Green Star behind it.

easy yes

gippen

깊픈 · in the hanok alley off Insadong 16-gil

From Anam, the Michelin pork-soup house: Ulleungdo-thistle hangover soup by day, charcoal anju and soju by night.

easy yes

Gaeseong Mandu Koong

개성만두 궁 · in a hanok off Insadong 10-gil

Kaesong mandu, three generations of one family; touristy from a long Michelin Bib run, and worth it anyway.

Namdaemun · 1
easy yes

Gigas

기가스 · 3F of piknic, above Hoehyeon

A Michelin star on piknic's third floor, and the farm-to-table is real. Room and food both land.

Euljiro · 2
easy yes

KYUNGILOAK PIZZERIA

경일옥 핏제리아 · in the old Kyungilok storefront, Euljiro 16-gil

Napoli wood-fired pies in the shell of the old Kyungilok seolleongtang; the margherita keeps it meatless.

easy yes

Doughcument

도우큐먼트 · on Supyo-ro, five tables and an open kitchen

A five-table place obsessed with its dough, name and all; the cheese and honey-sweet-potato pies keep it meatless.

Seoul Forest · Seongsu · 8
easy yes

Ilsangdammi

일상담미 성수점 · toward Ttukseom, on Ttukseom-ro

Premium Korean bansang carrying a 50-year master's recipes into a modern, polished room.

easy yes

Epikore

에피코어 · toward Ttukseom, on Ttukseom-ro

A build-your-own Korean bowl, Subway-style, and it's all plant-based top to bottom.

easy yes

MitBord Seoul

밋보어 서울 · on Seongsu-il-ro

Edition Denmark's Danish vegetarian brunch: rye-bread plates, seasonal veg, a good omelet.

easy yes

Marione

마리오네 · off Gwangnaru-ro

An award-winning pizzaiolo's Napoli pizza, the first in Korea with Gambero Rosso's top mark.

easy yes

IZZA

이짜 · off Gwangnaru-ro

A sharp, stylish wood-fired pizzeria where the pastas and starters are as good as the pies.

easy yes

CUCO

쿠코 · on Achasan-ro, east Seongsu

A big, high-ceilinged brunch room where the food leans vegetable-forward, with room to sit and talk.

easy yes

PIZZA SLICE SEOUL

피자 슬라이스 서울 · on Achasan-ro, east Seongsu

Tokyo's New-York-slice brand landed in Seoul. Big folding slices by the piece, meat-free picks easy.

easy yes

Butty Sandwich House

버티샌드위치하우스 · toward Ttukseom, on Ttukseom-ro

Really good sandwiches, with a proper vegan option too; the signature Butty is one I'd eat every day.

Sindang · 2
easy yes

Jangsu Boribap

장수보리밥 · Toegye-ro 85-gil

My favorite table in Sindang: jeyuk-bokkeum, barley bibimbap, and a spread of ssam greens.

easy yes

Gosari Express

고사리 익스프레스 신당 · Toegye-ro 85-gil

A vegan place with a Michelin green star; the gosari (fernbrake) dishes it's named for all deliver.

Hannam · 8
easy yes

Parc, Hannam

빠르크 한남본점 · Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil

My go-to Korean table in Hannam: clean, healthy cooking that every foreign friend I bring loves.

easy yes

Borgo Hannam

보르고한남 · Itaewon-ro 54-gil

Regional Italian by an actual Italian, Michelin-listed; the eggplant plate is a properly vegetarian one.

easy yes

Root Everyday

루트에브리데이 한남 · near Hangangjin

One of Hannam's original salad spots, and I've gone for years; big loaded bowls that fill you up.

easy yes

Atta

아따 · Hannam-daero 27ga-gil

A stylish wood-fired pizza and pasta room where I've liked it all; the charcoal margherita's the meat-free pick.

easy yes

SICILI

시칠리 · Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil

Sicilian cooking; grab a few pastas to share, and the eggplant gratin's the meat-free one.

easy yes

FERMENTS

퍼멘츠 · Daesagwan-ro 15-gil

One of Seoul's standout vegan spots, relaxed but stylish. Order the hummus and a fermented ade.

easy yes

Agne

아그네 · Dokseodang-ro 20-gil

Vegetable-forward European cooking off their own garden; seasonal and easygoing, in a minimal room.

haven't been

Vegie Weekend

베지위켄드 · near the Hannam crossroads

Haven't been. A vegetable-first Hannam brunch cafe, not strictly vegetarian; I hear the fried yam is the dish.

Itaewon · Haebangchon · 5
easy yes

Maddux Pizza

매덕스피자 · Itaewon-ro 26-gil

Big, proper New York-style pizza, by the slice or the whole pie.

easy yes

ESP

ESP · Sinheung-ro 20-gil

Wood-fired pizza with topping combos you won't see elsewhere; I want to order the whole menu.

haven't been

Plant, Itaewon

플랜트 이태원 · in Itaewon, on Bogwang-ro near Itaewon Station

Haven't been, but it's the vegan spot travelers hit first in Itaewon, plant-based since 2013.

haven't been

Vegetus

베제투스 · in Haebangchon, on Sinheung-ro

Haven't been, but it's a long-running Haebangchon vegan kitchen, known for its lentil burger.

haven't been

ALT.a

알트에이 이태원점 · Bogwang-ro

Haven't been — a fully vegan Chinese-leaning spot, a Michelin Bib pick two years running.

Hyochang · Namyeong · 4
easy yes

Pajama Deli, Hyochang Park

파자마델리 효창공원점 · in Hyochang Park

Pajama Deli's park branch: sandwiches, coffee, and a table right inside Hyochang Park.

easy yes

Pajama Deli

파자마델리 · near Hyochang Park

A small, likeable sandwich-and-coffee cafe; the park branch is a treat too.

easy yes

Hanip Soban

한입소반 · near Sookmyung Univ. Stn

The best mukeunji-tuna gimbap in Seoul; a pilgrimage if you love gimbap.

easy yes

piishock

피쇽 · near Namyeong Stn

Fresh, hand-made pasta at a little Namyeong table.

Gongdeok · Daeheung · 4
easy yes

Hwanggeum Kongbat

황금콩밭 · off Mapo-daero, up by Aeogae

If tofu interests you, this is the house: made in-house, and it carries the menu rather than garnishing it.

easy yes

Nuova Italia

누오바이탈리아 · in Daeheung-dong, by the Gyeongui Line park

Italian bakery that Italians vouch for: proper breads, pizza by the slice, a deli case.

easy yes

Pizzeria Ducky

피제리아더키 · in Sinsu-dong, by the Gyeongui Line park

Wood-fired pizza on soft, chewy dough; if Ducky's full, the sister cafe next door serves the same pies.

haven't been

Base is Nice

베이스이즈나이스 · in Dohwa-dong, near Mapo Station

Haven't been, but it's a Michelin Bib Gourmand vegetable kitchen; one chef, lunch only, booking only.

Yeonnam · 3
haven't been

Plant, Yeonnam

플랜트 연남점 · in Yeonnam-dong, near Hongik Univ Station

Haven't been to this branch, but it's Plant, Seoul's best-known vegan cafe.

haven't been

Somemore Deli

썸모어델리 · in the north Yeonnam back lanes

Haven't been, but it's the Seoul branch of an Incheon brunch deli; coffee and wine too.

haven't been

Spill Out

스필아웃 · in the Miro-gil pocket, southeast Yeonnam

Haven't been, but it's a New Jersey tomato-pie bar run by three Americans.

Hongdae · Seogyo · 6
easy yes

Rosso 1924

로쏘 1924 나폴리 화덕피자 홍대점 · in central Hongdae

The pizzaiolo's a Naples master, Giustiniani family; ninety seconds in the wood fire and it's pizza.

easy yes

Panello

빠넬로 · between Hapjeong and Hongdae

Wednesday Food Talk put it on the map, but the 300-bottle Italian wine list is what seals it.

easy yes

Spacca Napoli

스파카나폴리 합정 · in Hapjeong

Ranked fourth pizza in Asia-Pacific for 2026, and its margherita took Pizza of the Year; the queue knows.

easy yes

Brett Pizza

브렛피자 · in Sangsu

Wild-yeast dough into a wood fire, toppings you don't expect — pizza with fine-dining intent.

haven't been

Hansukwha

한석화 · in Sangsu

Haven't been. A small stone-pot bibimbap house in a Sangsu basement; the namul bowl is meat-free.

haven't been

Seogwan Myeonok Hongdae

서관면옥 홍대점 · in west Seogyo

Haven't been, but it's a Blue-Ribbon Pyongyang-naengmyeon house; the brothless goldong is the meat-free bowl.

Mangwon · 2
easy yes

Selermari

샐러마리 · on Mangwon-ro

Fusion bunsik that watches what goes in, and the gimbap is why you come.

haven't been

Pizza Bills

피자빌스 · near Mangwon sports park

Haven't been, but it's a tiny solo-run pizza spot by the sports park, mostly takeout.

Sinsa · 2
easy yes

pinch brunch bar

핀치브런치바 · on a cross-street a block west of Garosu-gil

Fully plant-based brunch and natural wine, following whatever the season grows.

easy yes

LÉGUME

레귬 · on the 2nd floor of Sinsa Square, by Sinsa Stn

Asia's first vegan Michelin star; for vegetarians, it's this or bium.

Apgujeong · Cheongdam · 2
easy yes

BIUM

비움 · on Hakdong-ro 97-gil, eastern Cheongdam

Temple food from the chef with a Michelin star at Seventh Door; where I take vegetarian friends.

easy yes

Myeon Seoul

면서울 · in the W building, near Apgujeong Rodeo Stn

What I say first when a foreign friend asks about Apgujeong; eat through the noodles, vegan bowl and all.

Pescatarian — fish and seafood, no meat

Bukchon · Anguk · 2
easy yes

Italyjae

이태리재 · Sogyeok-dong

A long-loved Italian kitchen in a hanok; the uni-and-bottarga pasta is the one everyone comes for.

What to get: the seonge-eoran pasta (sea urchin and bottarga); the truffle-cream gnocchi too.
Getting in: Book on CatchTable (캐치테이블), or just walk in. Closed Mondays, with a 3–6pm break. On Yulgok-ro 1-gil.
easy yes

Kkotnuri Deulbap, Gyeongbokgung

꽃누리들밥 경복궁점 · Yulgok-ro 1-gil

My go-to for showing friends a real Korean meal: rice, soup, banchan, a main, grandmothers everywhere.

What to get: the deulbap set: rice, soup, a spread of banchan, and a main; the full Korean table. You order at the kiosk, one set per person, and picking a main is the part people miss.
Getting in: The room is big, so even at the lunch peak the line moves fast; come before noon for the shortest wait. Daily 10:30am–8pm, break 3–5pm. Banchan is self-serve refill.
Seochon · 10
easy yes

Haemok Seochon

해목 서촌점 · on Jahamun-ro, Tongui-dong

Haeundae's hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice), now in Seochon; the Busan original is a Bib Gourmand.

easy yes

Seochon Gyedanjip

서촌계단집 · at the stair-fronted shop mid-Geumcheongyo alley

A seafood pocha (a street-food bar) on the day-boat principle: nothing carried over, provenance on the board.

easy yes

Chebudong Sujebi & Boribap

체부동 수제비와 보리밥 · in the Chebu-dong lane behind Tosokchon

Order the sujebi (dough-flake soup) and barley rice comes free, or the reverse; either way you eat both.

easy yes

Shokudo Hab

쇼쿠도 합 · on Sajik-ro, by Sajik Park

A serious Japanese izakaya in a made-over hanok; a short menu of sashimi and simmered seafood, dinner only.

easy yes

Satoru the Seochon

사토루 더 서촌 · off Jahamun-ro 7-gil, mid-Seochon

An aged-sashimi table near the palace, with different menus at lunch and dinner; a dependable Japanese spot.

easy yes

Pupetto Club

푸페또클럽 · on Jahamun-ro, up by Tongin Market

A Southern-Italian seafood trattoria: fritto misto, fisherman's pasta, and the easy feel of somewhere in Italy.

easy yes

Osteria Kochibi

고치비 · on Pirundae-ro, west Seochon

Jeju produce, cooked Italian: the island's shrimp, octopus, and black pork across the pastas and mains.

haven't been

Yeoraeyeogeo

여래여거 · a hidden counter room on Okin-gil

Haven't been. A bar-seat izakaya on sashimi and sushi, booked weeks out; two-plus order a bottle, sake or wine.

haven't been

KISAKI

키사키 · in Tongin-dong

Haven't been. A Tongin-dong izakaya on the day's sashimi and charcoal, open late.

haven't been

TAEHA

태하 서촌 · at the east end of the food alley

Haven't been, but it's a wine-and-champagne bar on seasonal small plates, with oysters by the piece.

Gwanghwamun · City Hall · 3
easy yes

Jojo Kalguksu

조조칼국수 시청점 · near City Hall Stn, Seosomun

The clam kalguksu I keep going back to; the pajeon and kimchi are just as good.

easy yes

Goko

고코 본점 · in Naesu-dong

Korean-filled onigiri in the Japanese style, made to order at a small counter.

haven't been

Sabal

사발 · Gyeonghuigung-ui Achim, by Gyeonghuigung

Haven't been. A noodle house by Gyeonghuigung; chicken noodles are the signature, with plenty of seafood bowls.

Jongno · 6
easy yes

Gwanghui Kalguksu

광희칼국수 · in the same alley as Imun Seolnongtang

A weekday-lunch-only kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) on anchovy broth, no meat in it, and a queue that never clears.

easy yes

Memillan

메밀란 · in a hanok off Insadong 11-gil

Buckwheat noodles on one side, fugu (pufferfish) on the other; the only meat dish is a pork bossam.

easy yes

Jongno Jjigae Maeul

종로찌게마을 · in Nakwon-dong, same lane as Eulji Myeonok

Fish roe, milt and innards done spicy, a drinkers' den with no meat anywhere, all seafood.

easy yes

Jongno Halmeoni Kalguksu

종로할머니칼국수 · between the Jongno 3-ga yajang alleys, Donui-dong

Hand-cut kalguksu in anchovy broth since the late '80s, the dough worked right at the door.

easy yes

Bangul & Kkomak, Seosunra-gil

방울과꼬막 서순라길 · at the top of Seosunra-gil

A seafood pocha in the former Daerimjang inn, old sign and all: raw fish, shellfish and soju.

haven't been

Pyeonghaeok

평해옥 · in a Nakwon-dong side lane

Haven't been, but it's a soy-crab (ganjang-gejang) set house in a redone hanok; one seafood set, crab-first.

Namdaemun · 1
easy yes

Hoehyeon Sikdang

회현식당 · next to piknic

One fixed fish set at lunch, booked in two seatings; an izakaya at night, next door to piknic.

Euljiro · 6
easy yes

Ojangdong Heungnamjip

오장동흥남집 본점 · on the Hamhung naengmyeon street, Ojang-dong

The 1953 house that started Ojangdong's Hamhung naengmyeon strip; the raw-fish (hoe) bowl is the order.

easy yes

Ojangdong Hamheung Naengmyeon

오장동함흥냉면 · next door to Heungnamjip

The neighbor that made it a rivalry, a Michelin Bib 2017–2022; the raw-fish (hoe) bowl stays meat-free.

easy yes

Chungmu Kalguksu Bossam

충무칼국수보쌈 본점 · in Pil-dong, near Pildong Myeonok

Anchovy-broth kalguksu and pork bossam together since 1972; locals order the two as a pair.

easy yes

Cheongsong Son-Kalguksu

청송손칼국수 · off the print alley on Euljiro 18-gil

Decades of one dish for the print crews: hand-cut noodles in anchovy broth, cut right at the window.

easy yes

Eulji Odeng

을지오뎅 · at the mouth of the golbaengi alley, Supyo-ro

A veteran odeng (fish-cake) bar at the golbaengi-alley mouth. Its real spine is East Sea sandfish.

haven't been

Busan Bokjip

부산복집 · behind the old Scala theater block

Haven't been. One owner's blowfish house since 1968, Daegu then Seoul, a state-certified Longevity Small Business.

Cheongnyangni · 4
easy yes

Chungbuk Sikdang

충북식당 · in Gyeongdong Market

A country grandma's cooking at market prices: mild sundubu, and earthy cheonggukjang to mix into barley rice.

easy yes

Gwangju Sikdang

광주식당 · in Cheongnyangni Market

Cheap home cooking made TV-famous by its cheonggukjang, in a room full of grandparents.

easy yes

Pescaderia

페스카데리아 · by Gyeongdong Market

Seafood tacos in the old market, from the chef behind Asia's first Michelin-starred Mexican kitchen.

easy yes

Gyeongbuk Son Kalguksu

경북손칼국수 · near Cheongnyangni Stn

Hand-cut kalguksu since 1969; the noodle-cutting's a show, but the jeon are even better.

Seoul Forest · Seongsu · 5
easy yes

oyoyoy

oyoyoy 본점 · on Seongsu-il-ro

A casual standing oyster bar — big, premium oysters year-round; if you love oysters, just stop in.

easy yes

El Molino

엘몰리노 · off Seoulsup-2-gil

The Culinary Class Wars 'Korean Taco King' doing modern Mexican; the fish and shrimp tacos keep it pescatarian.

easy yes

Seonchae

선채 성수 · on Achasan-ro, east Seongsu

Casual Korean sotbap (pot rice) built on fish and local produce; the cast-iron-cauldron room is Insta-famous.

easy yes

Sobamae

소바마에 · toward Wangsimni

Hand-cut soba from a thirty-five-year Japan artisan; fish dashi, no meat needed.

easy yes

Bottari Taco House

보따리타코 · on Achasan-ro, east Seongsu

IZZA's taco spinoff — offbeat fillings, but the corn tortillas are the real deal.

Sindang · 2
easy yes

Hani Kalguksu

하니칼국수 · Toegye-ro

A seafood kalguksu house; if the dongjuk-clam one's on, I'll order it any day.

easy yes

Okgyeongine Geonsaengseon

옥경이네건생선 · Toegye-ro 85-gil

Grilled semi-dried cuttlefish, dipped in their special sauce, and an actual 'wow' comes out of you.

Hannam · 1
easy yes

Aqua

아쿠아 · Itaewon-ro 54-gil

A snug Japanese-French izakaya of aged sashimi and small plates over sake, for a proper sit-down dinner.

Itaewon · Haebangchon · 2
easy yes

Khaosan

카오산 · Itaewon-ro 20-gil

A Thai place I've gone to for years; one of my easy, no-fuss favorites.

easy yes

Yeosudaek

여수댁 · Noksapyeong-daero 52-gil

Korean steamed fish that used to be a local secret; now everyone's heard of it.

Samgakji · Sinyongsan · 5
easy yes

Seomjip

섬집 · near Sinyongsan Stn

Generous home-style Korean, seasonal seafood and meat with a big spread of banchan; all of it good.

easy yes

Ureomma Jecheol Matjip

울엄마제철맛집 · near Yongsan Stn

An old-school room that's always full; seasonal seafood and drinks, plenty for a pescatarian.

easy yes

Geunbon Yangman

근본양만 용산 · near Samgakji Stn

Straw-fired freshwater eel over rice, an easy pescatarian pick — the firing takes time, so don't arrive late.

easy yes

Seonchae

선채 용산 · near Samgakji Stn

Composed Korean cooking with a strong traditional-liquor list; the seafood plates suit a pescatarian.

easy yes

Bangul-gwa-kkomak

방울과꼬막 삼각지 · near Samgakji Stn

A late-night cockle (kkomak) pocha with plenty of seafood, so easy for pescatarians.

Hyochang · Namyeong · 3
easy yes

Jin Hamheung Naengmyeon

진함흥냉면 · near Hyochang Park

Where I go when a spicy hoe- (raw-fish) or bibim-naengmyeon calls.

easy yes

Obok Hamheung Naengmyeon

오복함흥냉면 · Namyeong food alley

My regular for chewy bibim-naengmyeon, sweet and spicy, with a kettle of warm broth on the side.

easy yes

Vi.Ses Bageri

븨세스바게리 · in Huam-dong

Sourdough sandwiches and focaccia on an up-and-coming Huam-dong block.

Yeonhui · 2
easy yes

Yeonhui Gimbap

연희김밥 본점 · in Yeonhui-dong

Fat gimbap among Seoul's best; seafood rolls for skipping meat, and the spicy squid's the standout.

easy yes

Yeonhuigungddeul Domasori Gimbap

연희궁뜰 도마소리 김밥 · in Yeonhui-dong

Gimbap the other way round: less rice, more filling, and a menu longer than you'd believe.

Yeonnam · 2
easy yes

Choosoo

추수 · on a mid-Yeonnam back lane

Rice is the main event: three kinds milled fresh, cooked in a gamasot (cauldron).

easy yes

Gamnamujip Gisa Sikdang

감나무집기사식당 · on Yeonnam-ro, south Yeonnam

A 24-hour taxi-drivers' diner, once on TV's Infinite Challenge; these days everyone eats here, not just drivers.

Hongdae · Seogyo · 5
easy yes

Maru Donkatsu

마루돈까스 · in Hapjeong

Walls full of celebrity autographs, and in Korea the cheese donkatsu is the one to try.

easy yes

Geumbok Sikdang

금복식당 · near Sangsu Stn Exit 4

My go-to for charcoal-grilled mackerel: deboned by hand each morning, with rice, soup and salad on free refill.

easy yes

Yeonwoo Gimbap

연우김밥 · in Sangsu

Gimbap stuffed past reason with pollack or fried tofu; more fillings than rice, a full meal from a tiny counter.

easy yes

Dongkkun

동꾼 · in west Seogyo

A Japanese late-night diner in all but address; small, warm, and the sashimi carries the no-meat table.

easy yes

Salsa Rica

살사리까 · in north Hapjeong

Mexican from scratch, down to the tortillas pressed in-house; the ceviche and fish tacos are the no-meat picks.

Mangwon · 1
easy yes

604seoul

604seoul · on the main road from Mangwon Stn

Australian brunch done right, and the shrimp bun is the one you came for.

Sinsa · 4
easy yes

TEBO

테보 · on a back lane west of Garosu-gil

Sanuki udon with the noodles cut on site; watch it happen from the counter.

easy yes

Busan Agu

부산아구 · in a side street southeast of Sinsa Stn

Agujjim (spicy braised monkfish) and blue crab done the same way, forty-odd years in; finish with the fried rice.

easy yes

Hansung Dongas

한성돈까스 · on a side street off Gangnam-daero, south of Sinsa Stn

A tonkatsu spot Gangnam's eaten at since 1986; the saengseon-katsu (fish cutlet) is the no-pork pick.

haven't been

L'OIGNON

르오뇽 · on a side street off the south end of Garosu-gil

Haven't been, but it's a tiny Michelin-listed kitchen, seafood and veg, no meat.

For eating vegetarian across Korea — temple food, what to ask for, what to watch — there is a longer guide: Vegetarian & vegan in Korea.

What to order and how to get in — the hours, the queue apps, the booking that needs a Korean phone number — is in the app.

Bukchon is free, in full, so you can see whether you trust me before paying.

Open the guide — Bukchon is free

Seoul by moment: early mornings · on your own · vegetarian · late nights · with a view · for a date

Seoul by kind of place: cafes · specialty coffee · bakeries · desserts · tea · Korean barbecue · bars · natural wine · markets · museums and galleries · shopping · things to do