Namdaemun

남대문 · Central Seoul

Korea's biggest market — the city at work, not on show

Korea's largest market, and a working one: wholesalers, decades-old shops, and makers doing actual business, not performing for visitors. Eat as you go — the hotteok, the mandu, and the galchi (cutlassfish) alley, one of the most particular food lanes in the city.

No photos, no star ratings — just what I'd tell a friend. I live in Seoul and these are the places I actually go, 13 of them here.

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13 places · 12 easy yes
easy yes

N Seoul Tower

N서울타워 · atop Namsan, cable car from Myeongdong

The Namsan tower and its view over all of Seoul; touristy, sure, but the view earns it.

easy yes

Gigas

기가스 · 3F of piknic, above Hoehyeon

A Michelin star on piknic's third floor, and the farm-to-table is real. Room and food both land.

easy yes

Namdaemun Market

남대문시장 · by Sungnyemun Gate

Korea's biggest market and still a working one — I come hungry and just eat my way through.

easy yes

Sungnyemun Gate

숭례문 · by Namdaemun Market / Seoul Stn

National Treasure No.1, the grand south gate over the market; I still slow down passing it.

easy yes

piknic

피크닉 · at the foot of Namsan

Gorgeously designed, a private art space at Namsan's foot; one of Seoul's most-loved date spots.

easy yes

Hoehyeon Underground Shopping Center

회현지하쇼핑센터 · under Hoehyeon Stn

My DJ friends dig this underground arcade for vinyl: old record shops, treasure you can't predict.

I'd rather

Shinsegae Department Store, Main

신세계백화점 본점 · by Hoehyeon Stn

The grand flagship department store; handsome, but I'd point you to the newer ones.

easy yes

Hoehyeon Sikdang

회현식당 · next to piknic

One fixed fish set at lunch, booked in two seatings; an izakaya at night, next door to piknic.

easy yes

Seoryung

서령 · on Sowol-ro, near Sungnyemun

The Pyongyang naengmyeon everyone's lining up for lately; it even made the Michelin guide, and the room's a looker.

easy yes

Buwon Myeonok

부원면옥 · in Namdaemun Market

A 65-year veteran naengmyeon spot up a market staircase, where regulars sip soju as they slurp.

easy yes

Dakjinmi Gangwonjip

닭진미강원집 · in the Namdaemun galchi alley

Dak-gomtang bubbling in a tin pot down the old galchi alley; getting there is half the fun.

easy yes

Pungnyeon Dakdoritang

풍년닭도리탕 본점 · in Bukchang-dong, near City Hall

Garlicky, spicy dak-doritang I keep coming back for; weekdays only, so plan it for a working lunch.

easy yes

Yaraehyang

야래향 · near Hoehyeon Stn

Old-school Korean-Chinese where the tangsuyuk steals it: crisp, then soft, tossed in sauce.

What to order and how to get in — the queue windows, the door moves, the booking that needs a Korean phone number — is in the app.

Bukchon is free, in full, so you can see whether you trust me before paying.

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