Jeju City
Jay · lives in Korea · How I choose places
old lanes and a late-night market, by the airport
Most people land here and drive straight out to the coast. Give it your first or last day: it's the part of Jeju that's a town rather than a view, with bakeries and coffee in the old lanes around Tapdong, Dongmun's market open till midnight, and gogi-guksu and black pork in between.
No photos, no star ratings — just what I'd tell a friend. These are the places on my own map, 246 of them here: 72 I've been to, 174 I haven't made it to yet.
Open Jeju City in the guide →US$14.99 · 30 days · no account · nothing to install
9 of the 246 places here are on this page. The other 237 are in the guide.
Restaurants 131 · Korean barbecue 18 · Cafes 45 · Tea 4 · Bakeries 17 · Desserts 8 · Bars 10 · Markets 3 · Shopping 7 · Things to do 3
Restaurants
Ollae Guksu
Gogi-guksu (pork-broth noodles), far clearer and deeper than the usual rich bowl. Always a line, but a quick one.
Woojin Haejangguk
Gosari haejang-guk, a bracken hangover soup found only on Jeju, and one of the island's longest lines, for good reason.
Sunok-ine Myeongga
Abalone from a haenyeo (one of Jeju's women free-divers) of forty years; the meal that fixes you after any flight.
+ 128 more in the guide
Korean barbecue
18 places here, in the guide
Cafes
45 places here, in the guide
Tea
4 places here, in the guide
Bakeries
17 places here, in the guide
Desserts
8 places here, in the guide
Bars
Magpie Brewery
Magpie's main brewery, founded by North Americans, feels half Jeju, half North America. Tour it or sit with a beer.
+ 9 more in the guide
Markets
Dongmun Market
Locals love it as much as visitors do, day or night; after a black-pork dinner, come for the night market.
Jeju 5-day Market
A proper country market: more than a thousand stalls of Jeju produce, fish and cheap market food.
+ 1 more in the guide
Shopping
7 places here, in the guide
Things to do
Saryeoni Forest
The forest walk under Hallasan I'd recommend most: not a garden but real forest at the mountain's foot.
Jeolmul Forest
A cedar forest with a 3km boardwalk loop and no steps, easy enough for strollers and grandparents.
Samseonghyeol
The three holes where Jeju's founding myth says its first ancestors rose: a genuinely mystical site downtown.
What to order and how to get in — the queue windows, which booking apps work without a Korean number — is in the guide.
Aewol is free, in full, so you can see whether you trust me before paying.