Aewol
애월 · West Jeju
Jay · lives in Korea · How I choose places
the cafe coast, and the few worth stopping for
The coast road west of the airport is lined with cafes, and most of them are only selling the view. What I'd pull over for: barley bread for the car, a set lunch in a former church. Then go inland to Saebyeol Oreum, a small volcanic cone with the whole west below you. An easy first afternoon off the plane.
No photos, no star ratings — just what I'd tell a friend. These are the places on my own map, 70 of them here: 37 I've been to, 33 I haven't made it to yet.
Open this neighborhood — free →
70 places · 37 easy yes · checked Oct 2026
Restaurants 33 · Korean barbecue 5 · Cafes 12 · Bakeries 5 · Desserts 3 · Bars 2 · Shopping 1 · Museums and galleries 1 · Things to do 8
Restaurants
Aewol Makguksu
애월 막국수 · Aewol coast road
Jeju grows more buckwheat than anywhere in Korea, so buckwheat-noodle houses abound; this is a solid one locals eat at.
Order: the perilla-oil buckwheat noodles (들기름막국수) or the cold noodles in broth (물막국수), with pheasant buckwheat dumplings (꿩메밀만두).
Getting in: Daily 10am–8pm, and rarely a wait.
Namcheorine Mulchong Kalguksu
남철이네물총칼국수 · Hagwi coast road
My go-to kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup): the broth comes packed with clams. Don't skip the bossam (boiled pork).
Order: the clam shabu kalguksu, finished with fried rice, and the gabeuri-sal bossam (a prized shoulder cut) for the table.
Getting in: 11am–10pm (break 3–5pm, last order 9pm); closed every other Monday. No need to book.
Donggyeong Bapsang
동경밥상 · Hagwi, near Donggwi port
The Jeju shop of a famous Busan eel-rice house, known for its owner, 'Buchae Dosa' of Culinary Class Wars season 2.
Order: the top-grade Tokyo-style unaju (eel over rice in a lacquer box), or the Nagoya-style hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice, eaten three ways), finished as ochazuke (rice in broth).
Getting in: Lunch queues can run an hour, even on weekdays, so come at the 11:30am opening. Daily 11:30am–9pm.
on my radar
Rielu
리엘루 · Goseong-ri, inland Aewol
The Chinese restaurant Jeju residents count as theirs.
What to get: if you go, the jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup) or the seafood gan-jjajang (dry black-bean noodles); add the Sichuan tangsuyuk (sweet-and-sour pork).
Getting in: The small restaurant fills at lunch, so walk-ins can wait up to half an hour, weekdays too. Mon–Sat 10:30am–8pm (break 3–5pm), closed Sun.
Masire Chicken
마시레치킨 · Hagwi, on Hagwi-ro
One of the west side's best chicken shops, with tables: chicken and beer at their best, always full of locals.
Order: the fried chicken, or half fried, half yangnyeom (sweet-spicy glazed); the shredded-scallion salad (파채) on the side.
Getting in: A queue builds after 7pm (about 30 minutes): arrive by 6:30pm, or phone an order for pickup (0507-1449-5585). Tue–Sun 5pm–midnight (last order 10:50pm), closed Mon; it can sell out.
on my radar
Moltz
몰츠 · Yusuam-ri, inland Aewol
A quiet country brunch kitchen whose Western plates lean on the sea.
What to get: if you go, the shrimp bisque pasta and the octopus salad, or the Jeju abalone pasta.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약): most tables go to bookings, and a booking stands only if everyone orders a dish. Wed–Sat 10:30am–7:30pm (break 3–5:30pm, last order 6:30pm), Sun–Mon to 3:30pm; closed Tue.
Baobab Sikdang
바오밥식당 · Susan-ri, on Olle route 16
Home-style set meals for walkers on Olle (Jeju walking trail) route 16.
Order: the Baobab set (12,000 won per person), a main with the day's banchan; for no meat, the jumbo mackerel set.
Getting in: Fri–Wed 11am–8pm, break 3–5pm; closed Thursday. Just turn up.
Blue Saigon
블루사이공 · near the Hangpaduri fortress site, inland Aewol
The pho I trust when I want a bowl, or need a hangover cure.
Order: the pork banh mi and the gochu pho bo (chili beef pho); or the grilled-vegetable banh mi.
Getting in: Put your name and number on the door list and wait in the car until they phone you. Expect up to 30 minutes, even at opening. Mon–Sat 11:30am–4pm, closed Sunday; shuts early if it sells out.
on my radar
Appaga Milmyeon Sonkalguksu
아빠가밀면손칼국수 · Jangjeon-ri, by the cherry-blossom street
Hand-cut kalguksu (noodle soup) made in-house, with no meat or seafood in the bowl.
What to get: if you go, the hand-cut kalguksu (손칼국수), the one dish on the posted menu.
Getting in: Lunch only: 11am–3pm, closed Sundays; no booking needed, but it can close early when the dough runs out.
Iseobang Yangnyeom Chicken
이서방양념치킨 · Gueom-ri, on the coast road
Old-school Korean fried chicken locals have loved for years, like Masire Chicken; a favorite of Korean travelers too.
Order: the half-and-half (반반치킨), fried and yangnyeom (sweet-spicy glazed); eating in, a 1.5-liter pitcher of draft.
Getting in: You can eat in, but most people phone an order (064-713-6445) and pick it up. Daily 5–9pm, taking orders until close. Delivery adds 2,000 won.
on my radar
Leesong-ok
이송옥 · Aewol-ri, by the Aewol transfer bus stop
Kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) with the noodles kneaded and the broth simmered in-house.
What to get: if you go, bomal (top shell) kalguksu (보말칼국수) or the chicken-broth one, with fried dumplings.
Getting in: You can just turn up, but it closes early when ingredients run out, so call before a late-afternoon visit (0507-1366-0460). Tue–Fri 10am–8pm, break 3:30–5pm; Saturday to 3:30pm; closed Sun–Mon.
on my radar
Imsunine Bapjip
임순이네밥집 · Gwakji, near Gwakji beach
Jeju's pork soups and noodles, in generous portions, for after the beach.
What to get: if you go, the momguk (제주 몸국, pork-bone soup with gulfweed) or the gosari yukgaejang (고사리 육개장, bracken soup).
Getting in: Expect a short queue at weekend lunch; come at the 11am opening. 11am–6pm, last order 5pm; closed Wednesdays; can close early when food runs out. Gwakji beach is about 10 min on foot.
Jeju Geomjeong Bori Masim
제주검정보리마씸 · Hagwi, by the Annam-dong bus stop
The top-shell noodle soup is good, but order the black-barley bibimbap: healthy food that fills you up.
Order: the black-barley bibimbap with abalone soybean paste, or the black-barley bomal (top shell) kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup; 검정보리 보말칼국수).
Getting in: Daily 8am–7:30pm, and seldom a wait. No MSG in anything.
Chamsol Sikdang
참솔식당 · Yusuam-ri village, inland Aewol
A village restaurant that specializes in mountain-greens bibimbap.
Order: the bibimbap on its own; for two, a Chamsol set (33,000 won) adds grilled mackerel or jeyuk (spicy stir-fried pork).
Getting in: 8am–9pm, closed Tue and on the main day of Seollal (Lunar New Year) and Chuseok (Korean harvest holiday); no need to book.
on my radar
Hanyeo Ddeul
해녀뜰 · Hagwi, where the Aewol coast road starts
Abalone the haenyeo (Jeju's women free-divers) bring in, with a sea view from every seat.
What to get: if you go, the abalone porridge set, which comes with dombe-gogi (boiled pork sliced on a wooden board); pork-free, just the porridge or bomal (top shell) kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup).
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약); there can be a wait at breakfast. Daily 8am–8pm. Park at the Burning Rest Pension lot (valet on hand).
Danso
단소 제주 애월본점 · Aewol-ri, beside Aewol Elementary
One of my top west-side picks, famous since BTS came: spicy pork and banchan on a round tray, nearly all refillable.
Order: the Danso set (17,000 won) with black-pork jeyuk (spicy stir-fried pork); add grilled Jeju sundae (blood sausage), only 20 made a day.
Getting in: There's often a wait, even at opening: from 8am the same day, join the waitlist on site through the QR code on the door. Lunch only: daily 10:30am–3pm.
on my radar
Kkongsunine
꽁순이네 · Sangga-ri, on the mid-mountain road
A daytime-only noodle shop for Jeju's two pork-broth bowls.
What to get: if you go, the momguk (pork-bone soup with gulfweed) or a gogi-guksu (pork-broth noodles).
Getting in: 10am–4:30pm; closed Tuesdays, and they close early once the ingredients run out. Bookings aren't needed.
The Aewol
더애월 본점 · Haga-ri, by the Yeonhwa-mot lotus pond
Black-pork duruchigi (stir-fried pork) or kimchi stew with pot rice: always hearty. No grill; pork lovers won't miss it.
Order: the kimchi stew with sot-bap (rice cooked in its own pot); duruchigi, two portions minimum.
Getting in: 10am–8pm; closed Sundays. No need to book.
on my radar
Manzy Kitchen
만지식당 · Gonae-ri, on the Olle walking trail (route 16)
A four-table Japanese kitchen with a three-dish menu.
What to get: if you go, the king-prawn tempura udon (two big fried prawns), or the tonkatsu set.
Getting in: Put your name on the CatchTable (캐치테이블) pad outside even if seats look free; a KakaoTalk message calls you in, then you prepay. 11am–8pm, break 3–5pm; closed Wed–Thu. Groups of 4+ may be split.
on my radar
Moon Dong-il Gosari Yukgaejang
문동일고사리육개장 · Hagwi, behind Hagwi Hanaro Mart
Jeju-style bracken yukgaejang (shredded-meat soup), the bowl chef Moon Dong-il brought to TV's Hansik Daecheop 3.
What to get: if you go, the bracken yukgaejang, then the perilla kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup).
Getting in: 8:30am–5pm, closed Tuesdays, and seldom a queue. Behind Hagwi Hanaro Mart, past Eunhye church.
on my radar
Sogilyeok
소길역 · Sogil-ri, inland Aewol
One of Jeju's easy places to eat alone, with Japanese hot pots.
What to get: if you go, the single-portion sukiyaki, dipped in egg, or shabu-shabu; curry rice or curry udon for something lighter.
Getting in: Dinner only, 5:30–9pm, and just twenty diners a night: no booking, first come, first served. Closed on dates ending in 1 or 2 (the 1st, 2nd, 11th, 12th, 21st, 22nd and 31st), not on a fixed weekday.
on my radar
Ssaigon Recipe
싸이공레시피 · Hagwi, by Hagwi Elementary
Vietnamese home recipes that moved from Seoul's Mapo to Jeju in 2022.
What to get: if you go, the pho bo or the bun bo Hue; cha gio (fried spring rolls), three at least.
Getting in: 10:30am–7:30pm, no break; closed Tue–Wed. Bookings aren't needed.
on my radar
Eondeokjip Guksu
언덕집국수 · Aewol coast road, Sineom
Gogi-guksu (pork-broth noodles), the bones simmered 36 hours, with the sea out the window.
What to get: if you go, the gogi-guksu, with steamed dumplings or a plate of black-pork suyuk (boiled sliced pork).
Getting in: Daily 8am–4pm, last order 3pm, so it works for breakfast, and you seldom queue. Rice is free and unlimited.
Isunsin Gimbap
이순신김밥 · Aewol coast road, Sineom
Driving Jeju, you want gimbap in the car, and the island has famous shops for it; this is one of the west side's.
Order: the Isunsin gimbap (fried crab stick and tofu skin); for a splurge, the ttaksaeu (Jeju's hard-shelled shrimp) tempura roll, 20,000 won.
Getting in: Phone ahead to reserve (064-799-5595): it shuts when the rolls sell out. 6am–3pm; closed Wednesdays.
Indian Kitchen
인디언키친 애월본점 · inland Aewol, 1km uphill from Aewol Hanaro Mart
Indian food from a chef who settled here from India years ago; known too for its big garden and striking building.
Order: the eggplant curry with garlic naan; tandoori chicken or lamb chops from the tandoor for meat eaters.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약). Daily 11:30am–10pm, last order 9pm.
on my radar
Ikkanshita
잇칸시타 · Jungeom, a lane up from the Aewol coast road
A locals' Japanese home-cooking restaurant where most sets arrive ringed with nine small dishes.
What to get: if you go, the ten-don set (tempura on rice: two king prawns and vegetables) or the maguro-uni don.
Getting in: Takes bookings by phone (064-713-5450), though you rarely need one. Daily 11am–8:50pm, no break, last order 8:10pm. Walk 20m up the lane beside Badang Hoetjip on the coast road (by Daeseop park).
on my radar
Jejunagi
제주나기 애월본점 · Gueom-ri, 5 min from Gueom harbor
A family who left the city to cook Nagoya-style grilled eel over rice.
What to get: if you go, the hitsumabushi (eel rice, eaten in four rounds), or the unaju, limited to 20 a day.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약). Daily 11am–9pm, break 3–5pm, last order 8pm.
on my radar
Confluence
컨플루언스 · Gwakji, near Gwakji beach
A French dinner course for so few guests it's practically a private table.
What to get: if you go, the set course; the beef Wellington course must be ordered for at least two.
Getting in: Reservations only, by phone (064-799-2532): no more than two tables and five guests in all a day, and a deposit text follows the booking. Parties of four at most; no children 12 and under. Dinner Fri–Sun 7–10pm; closed Mon–Thu.
on my radar
Tabeni
타베니 · Napeup-ri
Japanese-style lunch sets, and a curry that runs rich.
What to get: if you go, the curry set or the hambagu (Japanese hamburg steak) set.
Getting in: Lunch Tue–Sat 11:30am–3pm; closed Sun–Mon. Dinner by reservation only, and there's no posted phone number, so ask about dinner when you come for lunch.
Pho Hanoi
포하노이 베트남 쌀국수 · Gwangnyeong, by Jeju Tourism University
Eight hours of hanwoo (Korean beef) bones go into a pho broth that comes out clean.
Order: the beef pho, with a banh xeo (Vietnamese crepe) on the side.
Getting in: Daily 10am–8:30pm; walk in any time.
Pizzeria Dumbo
피제리아덤보 · Sogil-ri, in a guesthouse garden
Proper American-style pizza, eaten in a big, lovely garden on a peaceful afternoon.
Order: the Dumbo (house chorizo, pepperoni, bacon); the cheese and the ricotta pizzas are meat-free.
Getting in: Weekends are walk-in only. Seating is tight, so groups of 5+ should call first (0507-1435-2958). Noon–8pm, last order 7pm; closed Tue–Wed. Sell-outs close it early; Instagram (@pizzeria_dumbo) posts same-day closings.
on my radar
Fizz Aewol
피즈 애월 · Handam beach, across from Randy's Donuts
Handmade burgers, eaten with the sea filling the window.
What to get: if you go, the Fizz burger or the American; a peanut shake with fries.
Getting in: Most diners are seated within ten minutes, without booking. Daily 10am–7:30pm. Lot beside the building; if it is full, the restaurant covers an hour at the Handam public lot below.
Hotang
호탕 · Aewol harbor
A sleek Hong Kong-style noodle shop: soups somewhere between Hong Kong and Taiwan, as the owner puts it.
Order: the yangji tangmyeon (beef-brisket noodle soup); the shrimp-ball noodles are the meat-free bowl.
Getting in: A line can build at the lunch peak; outside it, walk in. Lunch only, 10am–3pm; closed Sun–Mon. The lane is narrow; use the big public lot right in front.
Korean barbecue
Mongtan, Aewol
몽탄 애월 · Aewol's cafe street, by Handam
Mongtan's Aewol branch: the udae-galbi (big beef short rib) house famous in Seoul's Yongsan, with a far shorter wait.
Order: the udae-galbi, grilled by the staff, then the radish-kimchi fried rice (석박지볶음밥); the Jeju-only dishes, like the jeopjjak-ppyeo guksu (pork-rib noodle soup), are good too.
Getting in: Book on CatchTable (캐치테이블), or put your name on its waitlist at the door; walk-ups wait 30 minutes to an hour. Daily noon–9:30pm, last order 8:30pm.
Sinjeju Chon Ori
신제주촌오리 · Hagwi, by Gamundong port
Thin duck slices grilled like shaved pork belly; wrapped in greens with sauce, hard to stop. The noodle soup's good too.
Order: the ori chadol, thin-sliced duck (one whole duck minimum, 60,000 won), then perilla kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup).
Getting in: Book ahead by phone (064-900-7542): only 18 ducks a day. 10:30am–10pm, last order 8pm. Closed Tuesday and one more weekday, so call first.
Geumdonga
금돈가 제주 애월해안도로 본점 · start of the Aewol coast road, Gamun-dong
The coast road's black pork, grilled over oak firewood by a grill master at your table.
Order: the 600g black-pork platter (neck and belly, 65,000 won) with the Hallasan steamed egg and a kimchi jjigae (stew).
Getting in: Takes Naver bookings (네이버 예약), though most diners manage without one. Daily 11am–10:30pm, last order 9:30pm.
on my radar
Dochidol Garden
도치돌가든 · Eoeum-ri, inland Aewol
Hanwoo (Korean beef) slaughtered the same day and grilled over charcoal.
What to get: if you go, the mixed hanwoo grill (800g for three, 120,000 won) and the popular yukhoe (beef tartare).
Getting in: Book by phone (064-799-1415); groups welcome. Daily 9am–9pm.
on my radar
Bongseong Sikdang
봉성식당 · Bongseong-ri, by the Hanaro Mart
Jeju black pork grilled alongside bracken and aged kimchi.
What to get: if you go, black-pork neck and belly (600g for two, 65,000 won); the yeolmu-guksu (cold young-radish kimchi noodles) to finish.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약). Wed–Mon 11am–10pm, break 3–4:30pm; closed Tue.
Cafes
on my radar
Greenmile Coffee, Gwakji
그린마일커피 곽지 · inland from Gwakji beach
A siphon-coffee roaster's second Jeju cafe, out in the fields on the island's sunset side.
What to get: if you go, a siphon coffee (you pick the bean) and the tiramisu, made to order.
Getting in: Thu–Mon 10:30am–6:30pm, closed Tue–Wed; you can just show up.
SpaceCup
스페이스컵 · inside 9.81 Park, inland Aewol
A cafe of original coffee drinks, one of them from a barista who has competed for Korea.
Order: the tequila espresso (that barista's recipe), or the yuzu americano (yu-mericano), with a slice of the stone-wall tiramisu.
Getting in: Inside 9.81 Park: use its lot (don't enter the roundabout; go straight past it, lot on the left). Wed and Fri–Mon 10am–6:20pm; Tuesday and Thursday hours unconfirmed.
on my radar
Cafe Sancheck
카페 산책 · Haga-ri village, inland Aewol
A village cafe whose light cakes are made to go with the coffee.
What to get: if you go, the almond cream latte and a slice of Basque cheesecake.
Getting in: Tue–Sun 11am–6pm, last order 5:30pm, closed Mon, and you'll seldom wait. No pets.
Slowboat Atelier
슬로보트 · Hagwi seafront
Sea views for quiet reading or serious drip coffee; well known on social media among architecture and design fans.
Order: the Atelier house blend; an egg tart with it.
Getting in: Park in Slowboat's own free lot and walk toward the sea: the cafe is the charcoal-colored building. No children: lots of stairs. Daily 10am–6pm; seats are rarely all taken.
Jeremy
제레미 · Aewol-ri, on the main road through town
The coffee the west side has loved longest, by the Aewol shore.
Order: the Jeremy Coffee (a double shot in cold milk, no ice), the house signature; the morning set before noon (10,000 won: a brewed coffee and thick toast).
Getting in: Barely a sign: search Aewol Hanuiwon (애월한의원) and it's across the main road. Tue–Sat 9am–5:30pm; closed Sun–Mon; waits are rare.
Coffee Nap Roasters, Jeju
커피냅로스터스 제주 · Hagwi, a block from the sea
Coffee Nap Roasters, already famous in Yeonnam-dong and Seongsu, in an old Jeju stone house it remodeled.
Order: a filter coffee, single origin or house blend; the americano if you want it quick.
Getting in: Daily 9am–5:30pm; no need to book. If you park, leave your phone number on the dash.
on my radar
Goto Coffee Bar
고토커피바 · Gueom-ri, inland of the coast road
A filter-coffee bar the owner made for sitting quietly and thinking.
What to get: if you go, a filter coffee with the raspberry terrine, or the pudding.
Getting in: Weekdays 10am–6pm; closed Sat–Sun. Just turn up. No pets inside; the terrace takes them. Park along the wall on the cafe side, clear of the lane.
on my radar
Greenmile Coffee, Aewol
그린마일커피 애월점 · Aewol-ri, on the road down to Handam beach
The Aewol cafe of a roaster that supplies beans to cafes across Korea.
What to get: if you go, the siphon coffee, a single origin, with the house tiramisu; or the Aewol hojicha latte.
Getting in: Weekdays 10:30am–5pm; closed Sat–Sun; rarely a wait. Street parking out front is allowed 11:30am–1:30pm; other times, 20-minute stops only.
on my radar
Orommar
오롬마르 · Jangjeon-ri
A village cafe where quince is the house flavor, in its namesake latte and in a tea.
What to get: if you go, the Orom latte (quince) or a seasonal hand-drip; a salt croissant with it.
Getting in: Its own lot is a short walk from the cafe (search Jangjeon-ri 110-5 in a map app). 11am–6pm; closed Tue–Wed; seats are seldom all taken.
Windstone
윈드스톤 · Gwangnyeong, beside Gwangnyeong Elementary
A last coffee before the airport, in a 60-year-old stone house.
Order: the almond latte, or the strong latte, less milky; Jeju potato bread with it.
Getting in: 9am–5pm; Sundays closed every other week. Rarely a wait, but park with care: on the shoulder below the crosswalk, toward the cabbage field; parking by the shop gets ticketed.
on my radar
Josik
조식 · Eoeum-ri, 3 min from Arte Museum
Breakfast in a yard where Khan the malamute and Leo the golden retriever roam free.
What to get: if you go, the breakfast plate with a drip coffee; the French toast otherwise.
Getting in: Skip it if dogs worry you. 9am–3pm; closed Tuesdays; turn up any time in those hours.
on my radar
Coal Ches Cafe
콜체스카페 · Napeup-ri, across from Haram Church
Caffeine-free 'coffee' brewed from Jeju black barley they grow themselves, in a restored old house.
What to get: if you go, the meok latte (black-barley drink with milk, iced only), with the meok tiramisu.
Getting in: 11am–6pm, but days off vary and go up on Instagram (@coal.ches.cafe), so check before you go; on an open day, just show up. Parking at the entrance for three cars, or six at a squeeze.
Bakeries
Sugine Borippang
숙이네보리빵 · Aewol harbor
Jeju is full of steamed-bun shops; this one's mugwort and barley buns are my favorite. So popular, I go early to reserve.
Order: the barley bun with red bean (보리팥빵) and the mugwort-barley one with red bean (쑥보리팥빵).
Getting in: Call the day before to hold a bag (064-799-1777), or come early: some kinds sell out by midday, and it shuts early once it's out. Wed–Mon 8am–5pm (Sat from 9am), closed Tue.
MAMPFI
맘피 · Jangjeon-ri
A bakery-grocery cafe by a quiet village's elementary school: good coffee, better breads. I always get the cardamom bun.
Order: beyond the cardamom bun (카다멈번), the Mampfi bun (맘피번), vanilla custard in a caramelized morning bun, or the vegan Mediterranean plate (지중해 플레이트) for a meal.
Getting in: Three to a party at most, and tables can't be pushed together: it's small. Mon–Thu only, 11am–5pm; just turn up.
on my radar
Lazy Corner Bakery
게으른모퉁이빵집 · Hagwi
Sourdough from naturally farmed Jeju wheat, baked for one afternoon a week.
What to get: if you go, the Jeju whole-wheat salt bread (제주통밀소금빵) and a mugwort sourdough (제주쑥사워도우).
Getting in: Open Wednesdays only, noon–5pm. Upstairs in a white house on the corner, with room for one car by the stone wall. On Saturdays they sell at the Jayeon Geudaero (자연그대로) farmers' market.
Bakehouse Un Po' Piu
베이크하우스 운포피우 · below Saebyeol Oreum, inland Aewol
The one big cafe on Jeju I recommend: facing Saebyeol Oreum, run by Jackson Pizza, so the pizza and bakes are serious.
Order: the margherita, or a brunch sandwich; the iced UPP latte is the house coffee.
Getting in: A field of pink muhly grass out front draws the crowds in the fall, but there are plenty of seats. Daily 9am–7pm, last order 6pm. Up the lane to the right of Saebyeol Friends ranch. No pets.
Holz Aewol
홀츠 애월 · Yusuam-ri, inland Aewol
Like stepping into a Swiss chalet: one owner is European, the bakes are fully European, good coffee, a grocery corner.
Order: the kouign-amann with a flat white; a laugen brötchen (pretzel roll) with scallion butter. A sister to MAMPFI, but its own thing, and hard to leave.
Getting in: 10:30am–6pm, last order 5pm; closed Mon–Tue. Indoor seating; walk-ins welcome.
Desserts
on my radar
Siso Kaymak, Aewol
시소 카이막 애월점 · Aewol coast road, Sineom
Kaymak (Turkish clotted cream) from Jeju milk, worked out over 100-plus trials.
What to get: if you go, the Siso kaymak, with Jeju honey and ekmek bread (both sold separately); kaymak milk to go.
Getting in: Walk up and order; the line, if any, is short. Weekdays 9am–7pm, weekends until 8pm.
Mamarron
마마롱 · Pyeonghwa-ro, Gwangnyeong
A patisserie where every cake uses pure dairy cream and is sold the day it's made.
Order: the Mamarron eclair or the mont blanc eclair, and a slice of the Gujwa carrot cake.
Getting in: 10am–6pm; closed Mondays. Bookings aren't needed. Dogs welcome, but not large or unvaccinated ones.
Shirini Cake
쉬리니케이크 · Napeup-ri, by Seoho pond
Fresh-cream cakes made only with healthy, top-grade ingredients. When I need a cake on Jeju, this is where I go.
Order: a slice of the Jeju lemon cream cake or the mugwort (ssuk) cake.
Getting in: Thu–Mon noon–6pm; closed Tue–Wed. Just turn up.
Bars
Miles
마일스 · Gonae harbor
Jeju's best-known jazz bar, by the harbor: live jazz with the sea and the boats in view. My answer when friends want jazz.
Order: a focaccia sandwich before 6pm; whisky or a cocktail after.
Getting in: Book the 8pm show on Naver (네이버 예약); you can come for the bar alone, without the show. 11am–11pm; closed Wednesdays. Second-floor bar and third-floor concert room, above Itsuda on the ground floor.
Matilda
마틸다 · Gonae-ri, a block from the sea
One of Jeju's first-generation LP bars, still loved by Korean travelers: a classic room, and you can request a song.
Order: a gin or vodka tonic, or a Jim Beam highball.
Getting in: 6pm–1am; closed Tuesdays. No booking needed.
Heights Store Jeju
하이츠 제주 · House of Refuge, Yusuam-ri
Hongdae's sharp streetwear shop opening on Jeju was news in itself; the clothes are fun to browse.
The move: the brand's own clothing, accessories and lifestyle goods, then a look at whatever House of Refuge is showing.
Getting in: Daily 10am–7pm.
Museums and galleries
ARTE MUSEUM Jeju
아르떼뮤지엄 제주 · inland Aewol, Eoeum-ri
Immersive media art from d'strict, the studio behind COEX's WAVE screen, for a rainy day.
The move: the 16 media-art exhibits, one after another through a former speaker factory.
Getting in: Tickets on Naver (네이버 예매) or at the door, 18,000 won for adults. Daily 10am–8pm, last entry 7pm. It's a drive.
Things to do
on my radar
Pahoehoe Lava Field Park
파호이호이 라바필드 파크 제주 · Jangjeon-ri, inland Aewol
Walk on lava that set thousands of years ago: pahoehoe (smooth, ropy) fields threaded with stone and bamboo.
What to get: if you go, the lava-field walk, then a matcha drink inside.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약). Daily 9am–6pm, last tickets 5pm. Entry 12,000 won.
on my radar
Geungnaksa
한국불교태고종극락사 · Sanggwi-ri, near Hangpaduri
A temple of Korea's Taego Buddhist order, to pair with the Hangpaduri fortress site nearby.
Getting in: No posted hours. Bus: Geungnaksa (극락사) stop, at the gate.
on my radar
Hwajowon
화조원 · Napeup-ri, off the Pyeonghwa-ro
A day out with kids among free-flying eagles and hawks, unfenced alpacas and parrots.
What to get: if you go, the raptor flight show (11am, 1pm, 3pm, 4:30pm), after which you can hold a bird on your arm; then alpaca feeding.
Getting in: Book on Naver (네이버 예약). Daily 9am–6pm; last entry 5pm from late March to late October (winter last entry isn't posted). Adults 18,000 won.
9.81 Park
9.81파크 제주 · inland Aewol, near Saebyeol Oreum
Engineless go-karts that run on gravity alone, with the sea and Hallasan in view.
The move: a racing package (from 34,500 won early-bird; you get lap times and HD video).
Getting in: Book a slot on Naver (네이버 예약). Daily from 9am; closing varies by day, 6:20–7pm, and the last race is 40 minutes before close. A free shuttle runs from the airport via the Shilla duty-free.
Saebyeol Friends
새별프렌즈 · foot of Saebyeol Oreum, off Pyeonghwa-ro
A hands-on animal park below Saebyeol Oreum, for kids and dates alike: buy a pile of feed and walk around feeding them.
The move: the black-nosed sheep first, then a slow round of the other animals.
Getting in: Buy tickets on Naver (네이버 예매); adult entry 18,000 won. Daily 9am–6pm, last entry 5pm. No outside food, and children under 24 months can't feed the animals.
on my radar
Barime Oreum
바리메 · uplands of inland Aewol
An oreum (volcanic cone) with no posted trail, the western neighbor of Keunnokkome Oreum.
Getting in: No posted hours, fees or facilities. You need a car.
on my radar
Keunnokkome Oreum
큰녹고메 · Yusuam-ri uplands
The bigger of the twin Nokkome oreums (volcanic cones).
Getting in: No posted hours or fees. You need a car.
Saebyeol Oreum
새별오름 · off Pyeonghwa-ro, Bongseong-ri
The bare grass cone you climb for all of west Jeju at once; silver grass covers it in autumn.
The move: up the steep path and down the gentle one, or the reverse.
Getting in: Off the Pyeonghwa-ro, with a big free lot; a short, steady climb. Go early, before the heat.
Open this neighborhood — free →
Before you go